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The native American husk-covered "tomato" known as tomatillo (it's a relative of the vining little ground cherry that grows wild all over the United States) is tang personified. But when you roast it, you mellow its precocious flavor into zesty richness. Serrano chiles deliver a fresh-green bite, while cilantro adds just the right herbal punch. If you've shied away from green salsas, finding them acrid and briny, try this very fresh tasting roasted tomatillo salsa and you'll be won back.

For 2 cups

Tomatillos, husked and rinsed
1 pound (7 medium)

Fresh serrano chiles, stemmed
4 to 5 (3/4 to 1 ounce)

White onion, sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 small (4 ounces)

Garlic cloves, peeled
3

Water
about 1/2 cup

Chopped fresh cilantro, loosely packed
1/3 cup

Salt
about 1 teaspoon

Sugar (optional)
1 teaspoon

For 4 cups

Tomatillos, husked and rinsed
2 pounds (about 14 medium)

Fresh serrano chiles, stemmed
8 to 10 (1 1/2 to 2 ounces)

White onion, sliced 1/4 inch thick
1 large (8 ounces)

Garlic cloves, peeled
6

Water
about 1 cup

Chopped fresh cilantro, loosely packed
2/3 cup

Salt
about 2 teaspoons

Sugar (optional)
2 teaspoons

For 6 cups

Tomatillos, husked and rinsed
3 pounds (21 medium)

Fresh serrano chiles, stemmed
12 to 15 (2 1/2 to 3 ounces)

White onion, sliced 1/4 inch thick
2 medium (12 ounces)

Garlic cloves, peeled
9

Water
about 1 1/2 cups

Chopped fresh cilantro, loosely packed
1 cup

Salt
about 1 tablespoon

Sugar (optional)
1 tablespoon

0. Heat the broiler. Lay the whole tomatillos and serranos on a broiler pan or baking sheet. Set the pan 4 inches below the broiler and let roast until the tomatillos are softened and splotchy black in places (the skins will split), about 5 minutes; your goal is to cook the tomatillos through while they roast, which means they'll change from light bright green to olive green on the top side. With a pair of tongs, flip over the tomatillos and chiles and roast the other side for another 4 to 5 minutes or so. Set aside to cool.

1. Turn the oven down to 425 degrees. Separate the onion into rings and, on a similar pan or baking sheet, combine them with the garlic. Place in the oven. Stir carefully every couple of minutes, until the onions are beautifully browned. (They're going to look wilted and translucent, even have a touch of char on some of the edges.) The garlic should feel soft and be browned in spots. The total roasting time will be about 15 minutes. Cool to room temperature.

2. In a food processor, place the onion-garlic mixture and the serranos, and pulse until moderately finely chopped, scraping everything down with a spatula as needed to keep it all moving. Scoop the mixture into a large bowl. Without washing the processor, coarsely puree the tomatillos with their juice -- no need to peel off their darkened skin or cut out their cores. Stir them into the chiles. Stir in enough water to give the salsa an easily spoonable consistency. Stir in the cilantro.

3. Taste and season highly with salt. Taste again and, if you like, add just enough sugar to take the edge off the bright tanginess of the tomatillos. If you're planning to use your salsa right away, simply pour it into a bowl and it's ready, or refrigerate it covered and use within 5 days. If you're canning or freezing the salsa, please see page 21.

Other Fresh Chile Possibilities:
Jalapeño, Santa Fe, Fresno, fresh pequin, finger hots, Hungarian wax.

Dishes You Can Make With This Salsa:
Tangy Green Guacamole (page 40), Emerald Corn Chowder (page 53), Tangy Lentil Salad (page 58), Scalloped Potatoes (page 64), Open-Face Chorizo Potato Omelet (page 67), Tomatillo-Baked Chicken Breasts (page 85), Tomatillo-Braised Pork Loin (page 98), Green Chile Crab Cakes (page 107)

Copyright © 1998 by Richard Lane Bayless