June, or the Machine
“Quemo. Quemo. Quemo, quemo, quemo. Quemo. QUE-mo!”
The most important thing the stagiaires learn on their first day at elBulli is this word: quemo.
Literally, it means “I burn.” The ones who don’t speak Spanish don’t know that, however, and so, as they mouth the strange word in the early days before it becomes reflex, it comes out a question, one often formed, it seems, in their own language: Kay-moh? Quémeau?
At the restaurant, quemo
is an all-purpose warning: behind you, coming through, hot stuff,...